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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.